INSTALLATION GUIDE
8936214410705 Fairplay 21 in W x 36-in H x 12 in D White Painted Door Wall Ready To Assemble Cabinet
TOOL AND MATERIAL LIST
WARNING
To reduce the risk of serious or fatal injury from fire explosion, or electrocution, if a gas line or electrical work is involved, have the work done by a utility company or qualified service professional.
To reduce the risk of shock, explosion, or injury, turn off all gas, electrical, and water connections before performing any work. Shut off the power to all appliances and receptacles in the kitchen, including lights, at the fuse-breaker box. Use a circuit tester to make sure the power is off.
Once you have ensured that the gas, water, and electricity in the room are turned off, that the plumbing, gas, and power supplies are properly capped, and have removed the old cabinetry and baseboards, you need to assess the room.
Take a special note. Use a level or straight edge to determine high spots and other imperfections. Mark any bumpy or bulging areas. You may have to prep the walls and floors if things are not plumb, level, and square. (Many people prefer to repaint and replace the flooring while the room is empty.)
The time you spend preparing the room will ensure smoother, easier cabinet installation.
WALL TYPE
WALL STUD AND DRYWALL:
Secure the cabinet to the wall with #10 x 2-1/2″ screws at the stud location (see Figure 1).
NOTE: Failure to properly secure the cabinets may result in serious injury! The screws recommended are for drywall and wood stud installations, not concrete or brick. If securing cabinets to another material, consult an installation professional to identify the proper fasteners.
INSPECTION
All cabinets are quality checked before leaving the factory and are carefully packaged to prevent damage during shipping and handling. Unfortunately, damage may occur during handling between the factory and the final destination. Inspect each cabinet carefully. If damage is discovered, place the cabinet back in the carton and notify the retailer of the purchase.
If you purchased pre-assembled cabinetry, you can proceed to step two and start your measurements. If you purchased ready-to-assemble cabinets, you’ll need to devote some time to putting the frames together so you can accurately visualize the height, width, and depth of the cabinets before you measure. Review the manufacturer’s specific product information, installation instructions, and hardware compatibility to ensure you’re off to a successful start.
IDENTIFY THE WALL STUDS
Use a stud finder along each wall to find and mark each wall stud. Note their placement in proximity to your cabinet markers to determine if you will need to drill in areas without wall studs (see Figure 2).
If cabinet placement requires drilling into an area without a wall stud, use a toggle bolt rather than standard screws. A toggle bolt has spring-like wings that open once placed through a drill hole and helps to reinforce heavy objects on drywall or hollow wall frames because it distributes the weight and pressure onto the outstretched wing components. Start by drilling a pilot hole with your drill bit. Once you’ve placed the toggle bolt through the hole, tighten the screw like normal.
SET UP KITCHEN
Most homes have uneven floors, which can affect the appearance of cabinets and kitchen islands. With a level, you should check the flatness of your kitchen floor. Locate the floor’s highest point. In order to do this, place your level at the base of the wall, checking several places along the wall until you find the highest point on the floor. Mark this spot and draw a horizontal line on each side of the wall where the cabinets will be installed. (See Figure 3)
Measure up from the floor’s highest point 34-1/2” and draw a level horizontal line across the wall to establish the top of the base cabinets. Measure up from there another 19-1/2”. This will be the baseline for wall cabinets. (When you are finished, the wall cabinets will sit 54″ above the highest spot in the floor). Please refer to your design elevations to verify dimensions specific to your cabinets’ layout (see Figure 4).
Using the 1” x 2″ or 1″ x 3″ furring strips, screw a support rail into the studs with 2” wood screws below the baseline you have drawn for the wall cabinets. This will help support the weight of the wall cabinets, and give you something to rest the cabinets on when installing them. Make sure your support rail is level (see Figure 5).
ABOUT SHIM
A shim is a thin and often tapered or wedged piece of material, used to fill small gaps or spaces between objects. Shims are typically used in order to support, adjust for better fit, or provide a level surface. Shims may also be used as spacers to fill gaps between parts subject to wear. In this specific installation guide, shim refers to the small pieces of wood used to ensure the cabinets are level, upright, and properly aligned during the installation process.
When installing the wall cabinets, the support rail impedes the use of shims if shims are needed from the bottom of the wall cabinets. In this case, if you need to shim the wall cabinets from the bottom, you would have to screw in the tops of the wall cabinets, and then remove the support rail to shim from the bottom (Figure 6).
To cut the shim, score it with a box cutter or razor blade. Other option is to use a chisel to break it. It should be noted that the shim should be placed between the cabinet and the stud for the screw to go through the shim (Figure 7).
WALL CABINET
Remove all doors, drawers, and adjustable shelving from the cabinets before installation. This will reduce weight and allow easier installation access. Measure the area to confirm that the kitchen design will work (see Figure 8).
We recommend starting by installing the top corner cabinets because you can use them as a marker for the rest of the upper cabinets. This way, you won’t have to bend over the bottom cabinets or risk damaging them while installing the upper cabinets. Ensure success by having one person hold the corner cabinet box in place while the other stands on the ladder. This will help you reposition the cabinet correctly.
Once you level the cabinet, locate the wall stud center line to the inside of cabinet and drill 7/32” pilot holes, approximately 2” deep. And then drill #10 x 2-1/2” wood screws. Do not fully tighten the screws until all cabinets have been shimmed and properly positioned (see Figure 9, Figure 10, and Figure 11).
Next, using the level against the front of the cabinet, shim wherever necessary to ensure the cabinets are perfectly plumb. Keep in mind, you may have to loosen the wood screws slightly to shim properly.
Lift the adjacent cabinet into position on the support rail and brace. Using clamps to clamp the cabinet face frames together firmly, drill a 3/32” pilot hole in three places along the hinge side of the frame (only from one side) ensuring that the holes do not interfere with hinge placement. Finally, drive in the #8 x 2-1/2” wood screws to join the two cabinets. Check to make sure the frames are even and plumb (see Figure 12). 
Transfer the wood stud spot to the cabinet back panel and drill 3/32” pilot holes, approximately 2” deep. And then drill #10 x 2-1/2” wood screws. Do not fully tighten the screws until all cabinets have been shimmed and properly positioned. Install the rest of your wall cabinets in the same manner (see Figure 13).
Once all cabinets are properly shimmed and positioned, finish tightening the screws to secure the cabinets to the walls. Remove the support rails and spackle screw holes if needed.
BASE CABINET
Start with the corner cabinet (if there is one) and place it in the position where it is to be mounted. When using a blind base cabinet, make sure the cabinet is pulled out of the corner at the appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen plan. A blind base cabinet fills the corner void with usable storage. The door comes pre-mounted on the left side but can be moved to the right depending on your design (see Figure 14).
Make sure your cabinet reaches the height of 34-1/2″ you drew on the wall. If not, you may have to shim it into position or use scrap to raise it to the proper level. If the cabinet tilts backward, shims at the back edge will help. If it’s tilting forward, use the pry bar under the front to adjust and then shim. Transfer the wood stud spot to the cabinet back panel and drill 3/32” pilot holes, approximately 2” deep. And then drill #10 x 2-1/2” wood screws. Do not fully tighten the screws until all cabinets have been shimmed and properly positioned. Install the rest of your wall cabinets in the same manner (see Figure 15).
If there is a blind corner cabinet, the opening should be sealed at this point with the 1/8” panel packed inside the cabinet.
Pre-drill for small finishing nails or use a pin nailer.
Next, shim the adjacent cabinet into position and check for level and plumb. Once again, clamp the face frames when they are perfectly flush, drill pilot holes, and join the two cabinets with screws as previously described. Continue this process until all cabinets are in place. Make sure that each cabinet rests at the line on the wall, level, and plumb with each adjacent cabinet.
Also, screw cabinets to each other at the face frames before screwing them into the wall (see Figure 14). The final step is adding fillers between the last cabinet and the wall. Refer to your designer’s layout for location and dimensions. 
INSTALL FILLER
Fillers may be necessary when installing cabinets. They help allow for odd dimensions between a row of cabinets and the wall. They also allow clearance for doors and drawers to operate properly when turning a corner with a blind corner cabinet. Fillers and valances often must be trimmed to fit.
Measure the area requiring a filler piece. Carefully trim the filler piece to the appropriate width with a saw. Clamp the filler in place and drill a pilot hole on the hinge side of the face frame and into the filler. Fasten the filler to the cabinet with #8 x 2-1/2” wood screws (see Figure 17).
If using a blind corner base, secure the other end of the filler through the inside of the cabinet. This is done with the same pilot hole and frame attachment screw technique.
INSTALL END PANEL
If your application uses a finished end panel, first trim the panel to fit and attach it to the side of the cabinet. This can be done with contact adhesive or 1/2” finishing nails (see Figurue 18). 
INSTALL MOLDING
Trim molding is used to trim out cabinetry where cabinets meet an adjacent wall, soffit, or ceiling. Carefully measure and cut to the proper length. Use small finish nails or a pin nailer to attach where the cabinet and wall meet.
Crown moldings mount along the top edge of the cabinets. If your cabinets are full overlay, you may need to install some blocking material on the top of the cabinets first.
When moldings meet at an angle, you will need a miter box for a proper cut. Once the moldings are cut to fit, use small finish nails or a pin nailer to attach the molding to the face frame of the cabinet (see Figure 19 and Figure 20).
When trimming molding, keep in mind that the proper position for the molding in the miter box is upside down with the bottom edge resting against the fence. 
Light rail moldings mount along the bottom edge of the cabinets. It is recommended that installing the end panel before the light rail molding. Otherwise, you will need to notch on the corner of the door frame where two moldings meet (Figure 21 and Figure 22). With the notch, the light rail molding on the cabinet’s side can be fully attached to the cabinet.
The installation procedure is similar to the top mount moldings. When moldings meet at an angle, you will need a miter box for a proper cut. Once the moldings are cut to fit, use small finish nails or a pin nailer to attach the molding to the bottom of the cabinets (See Figure 23 and Figrue 24). 
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Install interior convenience kits, such as tray dividers, rolling shelves, wastebaskets, etc. See instructions for each kit.
Install the toe kick overlay along the bottom of the base cabinets. Measure a continuous run of base cabinets and cut a piece of the toe kick to that length. Adhere with adhesive caulk and pin nails spaced 24 inches apart.
Reattach the doors by replacing the hinge screws.
Insert the drawers into the glides.
Remove the wall support rail and fill the screw holes with spackling. The wall is now ready for the backsplash material.
Documents / Resources
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